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Welcome to Juneau, Alaska—the only U.S. state capital you can’t drive to.
Accessible only by boat or plane, this spectacular city is surrounded by glaciers, rainforest, wildlife and some of the most breathtaking scenery in North America.
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Most visitors arrive by cruise ship, sailing north from Seattle or Vancouver through Alaska’s spectacular Inside Passage, with stops in Juneau, Skagway, Ketchikan, Sitka and other coastal towns. It’s an effortless way to experience Alaska. Your hotel moves with you, meals are included, unpacking happens just once, and every morning brings another incredible destination.
But there’s a trade-off.
You’re on the ship’s schedule—not your own.
The average cruise passenger spends only about five hours exploring Juneau before it’s time to head back aboard. That’s enough time to stroll Franklin Street, browse a few souvenir shops, grab lunch and perhaps squeeze in a whale watch or bus ride to Mendenhall Glacier. It’s a nice introduction.
But come on, you came all the way to one of the most beautiful cities in the world, the capital of Alaska and only spent five hours there?
Please.
During two episodes of Photowalks TV, my wife Ruth and I spent several days exploring Juneau beyond the cruise crowds. We discovered historic neighborhoods, flew over glaciers in a floatplane, landed on an icefield by helicopter, searched for humpback whales, photographed bears along a lonely road, hiked through the Tongass National Forest and found restaurants we’d happily visit again.
This guide follows that same journey.
Whether you’re arriving on a cruise ship with only a few precious hours or planning to spend several nights in Alaska’s capital, here’s how I’d recommend experiencing one of America’s most unforgettable cities.
Why Juneau Is So Different
Juneau has one distinction no other American capital can claim: you can’t drive there.
There are no highways connecting Juneau to the rest of Alaska or Canada. Every visitor arrives by airplane or boat.
Despite that isolation, Juneau is Alaska’s capital, most visited city in the state and one of the busiest ports in the Inside Passage. During the summer season, as many as 16,000 cruise passengers can arrive in a single day—remarkable for a city whose year-round population is just over 30,000.
Yet only a few miles beyond downtown, you’ll find yourself surrounded by glaciers, waterfalls, bald eagles, humpback whales and black bears. You may not find them all on your visit, but they are out there.
How Many Days Do You Need?
Five Hours (Cruise Stop)
You’ll have enough time for:
- Franklin Street
- Whale statue at Overstreet Park
- Lunch
- Shopping
or
- Mendenhall Glacier and Nugget Falls hike
- Return to ship
Trying to do both is pretty unheard of.
Two Days
Now we’re talking.
With two full days you can comfortably add:
- Historic downtown
- Whale watching
- Mendenhall Glacier/Nugget Falls
- Great restaurants
Three Days (My Recommendation)
Three days gives you time for Juneau’s signature experiences:
- Floatplane to Taku Glacier Lodge
- Helicopter glacier landing
- Whale watching
- Rainforest hiking
- Spending time Downtown and meeting locals.
That’s essentially the itinerary Ruth and I followed while filming Photowalks.
Where We Stayed
Aviator Suites
1873 Shell Simmons Drive
Juneau, AK 99801
Official website: aviatorsuiteshoteljuneau.com
If you’re flying into Juneau, this may be the most convenient hotel in town.
It’s directly across from the airport—you can literally walk there in a few minutes—but unlike most airport hotels, it’s surrounded by forest trails and mountain scenery.
Early morning flight? Late-night arrival? Great location.
Also Recommended
Best Western Grandma’s Feather Bed
2358 Mendenhall Loop Road
One of Juneau’s most popular locally operated hotels is a log cabin in the woods.
Four Points by Sheraton Juneau
51 Egan Drive
Best choice if you want to stay within walking distance of downtown and the cruise docks.
Day One: Historic Downtown Juneau
If you’re arriving on a cruise ship, this is where your adventure begins.
Most ships dock within walking distance of Franklin Street, Juneau’s historic main street and the heart of downtown. At the bottom of the street is the huge Taku store (550 S. Franklin Street, Juneau, AK 99801,) where you can see local fish catches processed, buy souvenirs or catch a bite at the Twisted Fish Company restaurant next door.
From here, you can start your Franklin Street walk, where you will find an enormous number of high end jewelry stores. Keep walking, and you’ll start to encounter mom and pop shops selling local goods and the infamous Red Dog Saloon (278 S. Franklin Street.).
Originally established during Juneau’s gold mining era, the saloon became a gathering place for miners, prospectors and travelers. Today, the Red Dog is exactly what visitors hope an old Alaska saloon will be, with swinging wooden doors, sawdust-covered floors and walls covered with taxidermy, mining memorabilia, antique firearms and old photographs.
The menu leans toward hearty Alaska pub fare, including burgers, sandwiches, seafood and chowder, along with Alaska craft beers and cocktails. You may not want to eat there, but you’ll want to see go in and take a peek.
As you continue up the street, historic brick buildings climb the hillside beneath towering mountains, colorful storefronts line the sidewalks and floatplanes buzz overhead every few minutes and as you look up, notice that staircases that go up seemingly forever. Down on the ground, you’ll find local gift shops, galleries, coffee shops and lots of Alaska-made products.
In the episode, we introduced you to Jonathan Swinton, a local photographer who exhibits his work at the Juneau Artists Gallery (175 S. Franklin Street.) Jonathan took us to his favorite photo spot in Juneau—the haunting ruins of the Treadwell Gold Mine on Douglas Island—and explained the 19th-century photographic printing process that gives his images their distinctive deep-blue appearance, called cyanotypes. (More on that in a minute.)
Breakfast or lunch at The Rookery Café
111 Seward Street (Right off Franklin)
Official website: https://therookerycafe.com
If you ask locals where to eat breakfast or lunch one answer comes up repeatedly:
The Rookery.
There’s usually a wait, but trust us, It’s worth it.
We actually ate here three times while filming because we enjoyed it that much. (The wife, Ruth, said off camera that if she had her choice, she’d eat there every day.)
Their fluffy scrambled eggs, roasted potatoes and excellent coffee make this one of Juneau’s standout breakfast spots.
Alaska State Capitol
Address: 120 Fourth Street, Juneau, AK 99801
Admission: Free
Right up the street from the Rookery is a capital building unlike any other you might expect to see–minus the huge dome that you usually see in capital buildings.
The Alaska State Capitol is surprisingly modest—a four-story granite building completed in 1931 when Alaska was still a U.S. territory. Inside are the offices of the governor, lieutenant governor and state legislators, along with historical displays and artwork celebrating Alaska’s Native cultures, wildlife and landscapes–and those are cool to see. If you take one of the free tours of the building, you’ll pick up a lot of interesting history about the 49th state.
Sealaska Heritage Institute & Walter Soboleff Building
Address: 105 S. Seward Street
Just down the street from the capital and Rookery is this little museum. If you really want to understand Southeast Alaska—not just admire its scenery—this is a great place to begin.
The Sealaska Heritage Institute is dedicated to preserving and sharing the cultures of the Tlingit, Haida and Tsimshian peoples, whose history in Southeast Alaska stretches back thousands of years.
Its home, the striking Walter Soboleff Building, opened in 2015 and is itself a work of art. Designed to resemble a traditional Northwest Coast bentwood box, the building houses the True Southeast cultural experience, rotating exhibitions, Native artwork, a beautiful cedar clan house known as Shuká Hít (Ancestors’ House), archives, classrooms and the Sealaska Heritage Store. Large-scale works by renowned Native artists are integrated throughout the building, making the architecture as memorable as the exhibits.
Unlike many museums that focus primarily on the past, the Sealaska Heritage Institute emphasizes that Tlingit, Haida and Tsimshian cultures are vibrant and thriving today. Visitors can learn about traditional carving, weaving, storytelling, language preservation and contemporary Native art, offering a deeper appreciation for the cultural heritage you’ll encounter throughout Juneau.
Overstreet Park & the Giant Whale Statue
Address: 301 Egan Drive, Juneau, AK 99801
As you leave the Sealaska Museum, you cross the street to the waterfront, and continue walking, in the same direction as you head to Overstreet Park and the huge whale statue, an image you’ll see on every postcard. It’s about a 15-minute walk–if you don’t want to stroll, you can always take public transportation.
Located just east of the downtown cruise docks, the sculpture honors the humpbacks that migrate to Southeast Alaska every summer to feed in the rich waters of the Inside Passage.
Make sure to stick around long enough to see the water from the fountain turned of, which makes for a more pleasing photo.
Speaking of photos, my favorite images from Juneau are directly behind the whale–namely those colorful, giant totem poles.
Jeff’s Photography Tip
Totem Poles
Everyone takes the same photo, one big vertical shot where you can barely see the amazing faces of the pole. You can do that. But I’d offer a few other options.
Start by moving in close, and photograph closeups of the faces. Use your phone’s 2x, 3x or 5x telephoto lens to isolate the carvings.
Then switch to your ultra-wide lens and get ridiculously close for a dramatic perspective, looking up at the pole. Give it a try!
Also: Instead of photographing a panorama left to right, rotate your phone and shoot a vertical panorama from bottom to top.
It creates a much more dramatic image of tall totem poles than a standard vertical photo.
Dinner: Twisted Fish (Salmon) or In Bocca al Lupo
Address: 120 Second Street, Juneau, AK 99801
It may surprise visitors to discover that one of Juneau’s best restaurants serves outstanding Italian food. In Bocca al Lupo specializes in handmade pasta, wood-fired pizza and locally sourced ingredients. We had the pizza and it was delightful.
Day Two: Gold Rush History, Floatplanes and Glaciers
The first day showed Juneau accessible to cruise ship passengers or folks with more times on their hands. On Day 2, you’ll need public transportation or access to wheels to explore more.
Today’s adventures begin just across Gastineau Channel on Douglas Island before taking to the skies aboard one of Alaska’s iconic floatplanes.
Stop 1: Treadwell Mine Historic Trail
Address: Sandy Beach Recreation Area, Douglas, AK 99824
Only a five-minute drive from downtown, you’ll find one of Juneau’s most fascinating historic sites—and one that surprisingly few cruise passengers ever see.
The Treadwell Mine was once the largest gold mine in the world. Beginning in the 1880s, more than 2,000 workers extracted over three million ounces of gold here. At its peak, this wasn’t simply a mine—it was an entire company town complete with homes, schools, stores and churches. That is, until 1917, when the mine collapsed into the water.
Today, all that’s left are haunting concrete foundations, rusting machinery and enormous walls slowly being reclaimed by the forest.
Rather than feeling abandoned, this is one of the great walks, and photo expeditions. Highly recommended.
If you have the time and can swing it financially, a floatplane adventure should be on your radar.
Wings Airways Floatplane Adventure
Address: 2 Marine Way, Juneau, AK 99801
Approximate Cost: $450–550 per person
Sign up to soar over the waters and see five different glaciers from up in the skies, and then land at a remote island where a BBQ feast awaits you. How cool does that sound?
Taku Glacier Lodge
Built more than a century ago, Taku Glacier Lodge feels wonderfully unchanged and the setting alone is worth the trip. Guests are given about two hours to explore before flying back to Juneau.
Part of that time will be feasting on:
- Wild Alaska salmon
- Fresh sourdough bread
- Homemade baked beans
- Reindeer sausage
- Cooked apples
- Peach-cinnamon scones
Now that you’ve seen the glacier from above, when you return to Juneau, hop in the car and take a drive to the city’s no. 1 tourist spot, the only glacier you can drive over to.
Mendenhall Glacier Visitor Center
6000 Glacier Spur Road
Distance from downtown: 13 miles (20–25 minutes)
The Mendenhall Glacier stretches roughly 13 miles from the Juneau Icefield into Mendenhall Lake, creating one of the easiest glaciers in Alaska to experience.
Unlike many glaciers that require long hikes or expensive flights, Mendenhall is accessible by road, making it one of Southeast Alaska’s most popular attractions.
If you’re arriving by cruise ship, dozens of buses make the trip throughout the day. Independent travelers can drive, take a taxi, rideshare or use seasonal shuttle services.
Before heading outside, spend a few minutes inside the visitor center.
The large viewing windows provide your first panoramic look at the glacier, and spotting scopes let you study details that are impossible to see with the naked eye. We also appreciated the short film documenting how dramatically Mendenhall has changed over the past several decades. Since the 1980s, the glacier has retreated roughly a mile—a sobering reminder that this landscape is constantly evolving.
Nugget Falls Trail
The paved trail to Nugget Falls may be the easiest great hike in Alaska, one with an incredible payoff.
As you walk beside Mendenhall Lake, the glacier slowly grows larger with every step until finally you reach one of the most spectacular waterfalls in the state. Nugget Falls plunges nearly 380 feet beside the glacier into the lake below. It’s pretty spectacular.
Worth the Splurge?
Coastal Helicopters Glacier Landing
Address: 8407 Airport Boulevard, Juneau, AK 99801
Typical Price: Around $400–500 per person
Here’s another way to see the glaciers, by landing on one.
Within minutes of leaving Juneau, our helicopter crossed snow-covered peaks before touching down on Herbert Glacier, a vast landscape of blue ice, meltwater streams and sculpted ridges.
Standing there felt like stepping onto another planet. Our pilot explained in the episode that while glaciers can sometimes be reached on foot after hours—or days—of climbing, helicopters make this extraordinary landscape accessible in just fifteen minutes.
The Drive Locals Simply Call “Out the Road”
One of my favorite discoveries in Juneau wasn’t a famous attraction, it was “out the road,” officially called Glacier Highway, but everyone knows exactly what you’re talking about when you say you’re driving “out the road.”
Starting in downtown Juneau, the highway winds north for roughly forty-five miles before ending abruptly at a simple sign. We took the drive because we were told we might see wildlife out there, and our friend wasn’t kidding. We did see several black bears at the side of the road, with one munching on dandelions besides the shoulder.
Another wandered into the woods moments after we arrived.
Photowalks TV Episodes
Watch the companion videos:
- Part 1: Juneau, Alaska: What Cruise Passengers Never See
- Part 2: Juneau Beyond the Cruise Ship: Glaciers, Whales & Bears (Debuting 9/13/26)
- And don’t forget about our Fairbanks episode!
For more travel inspiration, smartphone photography tips, and behind-the-scenes stories from the road, visit PhotowalksTV.com and subscribe to the free weekly newsletter.
